2020 Pinewood Derby Guide - Design Tips

Five main parts of a good design:

1. Maximize momentum.  Have a car that is as close to 5.0 ounces as possible, without going over.  Place most of the weight in the rear of the car, so it has the farthest distance to travel downhill (i..e, weight at the front of the car will have a few inches less downhill travel).
2. Aerodynamic shape.  The difference between a square front and sloped front may provide a negligible advantage, but every advantage counts!
3. Axle and wheel preparation.  Make the axles as smooth and polished as possible.  Ensure the wheel running surface is flat and without any burs.
4. Lubrication.  Use only dry graphite as as lubricant.  Apply some right before race time to ensure the axles stay as lubricated as possible.
5. Axle alignment.  If the car doesn't roll straight, it may cause zig-zagging on the track, which slows it.  The axles should be exactly perpendicular to the side of the car, to help ensure straight tracking.

More resources:

• See the Boy's Life guide for building a fast Pinewood Derby Car
• Watch this video to learn the science behind what makes a Derby car faster:

2020 Pinewood Derby Design Rules

FEBRUARY 8, 2020 IS RACE DAY!

Pack 99 Pinewood Derby Design Rules:

Each entry shall be constructed from an up-to-date B.S.A. Pinewood Derby Car Kit for the current year. A new car must be built for each year. All nine pieces must be used. The car must be free rolling. No starting devices are allowed.

Overall dimensions (length & width) -  The car must not be greater than 2 & 3/4 inches wide (including wheels) by 7 inches long (including accessories). The original Pinewood Derby wood body of the car must touch the starting gate. No part of the car can extend in front of the starting gate.

Wheel Base - The Distance (width) between the wheels (front or rear) must not be less than 1 & 3/4 inches (measured from innermost part of the wheels). The distance between the track and any part of the underside of the car must not be less than 3/8 of an inch. Wheels cannot extend in front or rear of the body of the car. All cars must have 4 wheels (no more, no less) and are required to have 2 wheels on each side opposing each other.

Visual Inspection of the Wheels - Wheels and axles MUST be the ones furnished in the car kit. Solid axles are not permitted. Replacement wheels and axles must be from an official BSA kit. Axles may be polished and lubricated (dry lubricant only). Wheels may be sanded to provide a true round circle but must retain the original width and flat rolling surface. No purposely-rounded wheels allowed. No "H" or "A" wheels. No attachments or adhesives will be allowed on the surfaces of a wheel. Wheels will be placed on a flat surface to verify that the entire width of at least three wheels make simultaneous contact with the flat surface while stationary and in travel (no angling or canting of the wheels).  Regardless of what they could be made out of, spacer bearings, washers, bushings or springs are prohibited, whether fixed or movable.  If axles are inserted in the original slots of the wood body, the nail points must be visible from the bottom of the car.  If the axles are inserted in holes in the side of the car, holes must be drilled in the bottom of the car so the points of axles (nails) can be seen. 

Total Weight - Entry will not exceed 5.0 ounces or 141.745 grams. Weight must be securely fixed to the car and non-movable.